The Quality of Yellow

posted in: Painting | 4


Without going into yellow’s past as the imperial color of the Kahns or the color of the light of Eden, or the color associatedwith Earth as one of the four elements and, without discussing the historical use of yellow as a pigment whose sources vary from ancient Egyptian sulfur, to synthetic 20th century translucent Hansa acrylic yellows, to 19th century lead chromate or chrome yellow a strong favorite of Turner’s to the fugitive(fast fading)  aureolin yellow preferred by Winslow Homer in his watercolors, or to the translucent  organic gamboge from Cambodia also preferred by Turner for it’s glazing ability or, without mentioning the Renaissance painters’ reliance on the toxic  yellow orpiment made from poisonous arsenic because of its promise to imitate a golden effect as described in Cennino Cennini’s Book of Art ( Libro Dell’Arte of 1396), or without talking about the stable and abundant but pale yellow ochre mined from earthen deposits in France and, without discussing too much chemistry or physics and, without  a set of actual paints to demonstrate and, without the expensive powdered gold  mixed with ochre to give a golden highlight as Renaissance artists did and,  without a constant ambient and muted daylight preferred by Da Vinci to insure the constant hue and value of his yellows but,  with only a set of falsifying and inconstant  electronic pixels  as my chromatic evidence I will talk about yellow.

Cadmium yellow was first available to artists in the last quarter of the 1800s.  Impressionists and neo-impressionsts were crazy for it because it gave a  strong yellow hue effect.  This yellow was opaque and potent.  If you applied the paint thickly, purely and opaquely like the Impressionists then, cadmium yellow was made for you.  There were concerns and competition.  The other new 19th century yellow was chrome yellow. It was brilliant when thinly applied to white ground but, it was fugitive ( tending to fade).  Vincent Van Gogh wrote to his brother Theo expressing concern about the permanence of the new vivid colors, cadmium yellow among them but, he concluded that maybe some fading would give a beneficial effect and help to soften and harmonize what he feared were overly strong colors.  Chief among the strong new colors was cadmium yellow which tolerated very little mixing or blending without becoming dull and chalky.  Cadmium yellow was an odd color revealing itself as pure because, it only reflected a very narrow slice of the visible spectrum. Cadmium yellow was great at absorbing all the other colors of light except for a pure yellow.  This meant cadmium yellow appeared intense and rich but, if you mixed it with another color then the narrow slice of pure yellow collapsed and the beholder only would find a dull yellowish greenish gray or a yellowish orange at best and , at worst it became a light sucking grayed brown. Yechhhh!   Impressionist painters therefore determined to limit their mixing of cadmium yellow with white and as little else as possible.  More mixing meant less light bounced back to the eye and resulted in a weak color effect.  Mixing opaque colors together is called subtractive mixing because, it subtracts light.  Van Gogh  applied  his paint thickly  and  often undiluted by mixing  to insure the strongest color effect. Artists like Van Gogh might mix the cadmium yellow with white  to give the color a quality of halation as seen in the painting example.

Unlike cadmium yellow, gamboge is a translucent color.  When viewed as a thick glob of paint it appears warm, not bright and, with a tendency to list toward green unlike a glob of cadmium yellow. But, when thinly applied to white ground it appears much more yellow.  That’s how Turner used it.  As light bounces off the white ground and back through the glaze of  gamboge it brightens the sensation of yellow.  The thinner the gamboge yellow the greater the sensation of yellow and,  the thicker the gamboge yellow becomes the less the sensation of yellow for the viewer.  Amateurs keep adding more yellow and wonder why they are getting a duller effect as they keep subtracting light by adding the pigment.  In my second example I offer a gamboge based yellow  in varying degrees of thickness,  providing varying degrees of yellow, applied to a white enamel anodized aluminum surface.

In my third example which uses gamboge on an oil primed linen, the thinner I make the glaze of yellow the brighter the yellow of the leaves appear to be.   Hermann Von Helmholtz advised artists to generate the strongest sensation  of spectral opposites in paint they should contrast yellow and blue paint.  In my diagrammed example I have circled areas where I have engineered the blue to be set against the yellow of the leaves.  This helps propel the yellow of the leaves toward the viewer.
 

4 Responses

  1. Benita Kane Jaro

    Dear David,
    This is wonderful, and certainly explains some of the problems I have had with the various yellows available in heavy body acrylics! Wonderful posting! I tried to find a gamboge among the offerings of these companies (I usually use GOLDEN), but so far can only find it in watercolors. Do you know what would it would be called by acrylic manufacturers? Thanks a million!
    Beni Jaro

  2. Benita Kane Jaro

    Hi again–
    For those who might be having similar difficulty to mine (see previous post) finding a color to correspond to GAMBOGE in acrylic (or oil) paints, you might find the two e-mails here useful. They are from Michael Townsend of GOLDEN Paints. He is their tech support person, evidently. I wrote and asked him what would work and he sent the first reply. I then asked if I might post it and he sent the second. Hope it is of help to anyone with this problem. I look forward to trying it myself!

    Dear Benita,

    Thank you for wanting to stick to our paints. In most cases, the real colorant called Gamboge Yellow is not used anymore because it is highly fugitive and will fade quickly from exposure to sunlight. But, the more modern versions are commonly based upon a Nickel Azo Yellow. I find this color to be too green in the thicker form to be a really good match for Gamboge, so you might be better to try the Indian Yellow Hue. If you find that the Indian Yellow is too orangy, you can always blend the Nickel Azo Yellow with some Diarylide Yellow which to me is probably a cleaner and truer gamboges color than anything else. Nickel Azo has a wonderfully bright yellow undertone, but if you add just a little Diarylide Yellow (5:1) with it, you should be able to follow any recipe using Gamboge with ease.
    Hope this helps!
    Regards,
    Michael S Townsend
    Technical Support
    GoldenPaints.com
    607-847-6154 / 800-959-6543
    WilliamsburgOils.com
    607-847-8843 / 800-293-9399

    Hi Beni,
    I think that would be fine for you to post my response to you. The only thing I think I would adjust would be where I say “I find this color to be too green in the thicker form… to read “…too green in a thicker application…” and as a reference to Nickel Azo Yellow you probably should add the pigment identification number which is normally on the tubes of paint regardless if it’s acrylic, oil or watercolor (at least it should be). In the case of Nickel Azo Yellow it’s PY 150 (http://www.goldenpaints.com//products/color/infopg.php?K=0001225 ) and Diarylide Yellow is PY 83 (http://www.goldenpaints.com//products/color/infopg.php?K=0001147 ). Our Indian Yellow Hue is here: http://www.goldenpaints.com//products/color/infopg.php?K=0001455
    We’re always happy to discuss color with artists!
    Michael

    • David

      HI Bonita, I enjoyed reading the Golden expert’s ideas on Gamboge yellow. Old Holland acrylic does make a specific Gamboge yellow. Indian Yellow is too red-brown to imitate Gamboge. Different companies have created their own concoctions. Lukas, a German firm, makes a Gamboge yellow which is considerably brighter than Old Hollands. It appears closer to a primary yellow deep. A diarylide yellow is a fine translucent warm yellow. Hansa is another translucent yellow but not as warm; I add a very small touch of napthol red to the hansa yellow to generate an equivalent gamboge if I am using acrylics. The goal is to sustain the translucent property of the Gamboge and of course, when ever you mix color you reduce translucence and interference with it’s ability to exploit the reflectance of it’s substrate or ground.
      Best, David

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